Seven days, Six nights
Obernai, Itterswiller, Kaysersberg
Day One - Arrival in Obernai; Hotel Cour d’Alsace
Just a few miles south of the frenetic activity of Strasbourg and the European Parliament, Obernai pulses with a more quiet energy. A stroll through this prosperous town reveals crooked alleyways lined with shops, hidden courtyards, lush parks, and lovely villas.
Just steps from the town square lies our home for the first two nights, the Cour d’Alsace, a small neighborhood that with painstaking care has been transformed into one of the area’s most extraordinary hotels (www.cour-alsace.com). Official check-in time is 2:00 PM though our rooms are often available earlier. At 6:30 PM we meet for a welcome cocktail where you will be introduced to your guides and hear more about your trip.
Dinner is in the restaurant Les Jardin de Ramparts, the former medieval manor house and wine cellar of the Baron de Gail. Conscious of tradition yet contemporary in design, we will experience our first tastes of Alsacian specialties, such as fois gras that competes with the best of southwest France, along with the light and spicy wines that complement so well.
Day Two - Obernai; Hotel Cour d’Alsace
Our first day’s walk will take us through meadows, vineyards and orchards as we explore the cluster of villages surrounding Obernai.
After a hearty lunch of onion tart and quiche Lorraine in the medieval village of Boersch, we continue on to the tiny settlement of St. Leonard. Here, Jean-Charles Spindler will illuminate for us the rare art of “marquetry”, an exquisite technique of painting through wood inlay. Unlike decorative inlay often used in furniture, “marquetry” relies heavily on an understanding of wood grain and color to create subtle murals, which shimmer with realism.
A pleasant stroll along the river will bring us back to Obernai with time to explore the many shops. This evening, we head to a local tavern where fish in the famous Reisling wine sauce is just one of our choices before our plunge deep into the countryside tomorrow.
Day Three - Itterswiller; Hotel Arnold
On day three, we begin with an early morning visit to Mont St. Odile, a 15th century fortified convent high on a hill above the Rhine valley and one of the most visited destinations in Alsace. We arrive well before the crowds to explore the legends of the abbey as well as take in the spectacular view that extends far across the river Rhine to the Black Forest in Germany. From St. Odile, our path leads through lush woodland as we descend to the village of Barr. After lunch near the village square, we continue on through the vineyards to Andlau and a stop for a café au lait before transferring to our new home.
We are truly in the country now and from your balcony at the Hotel Arnold, evening falls on a landscape of seemingly infinite vineyards (www.hotel-arnold.com). Dinner tonight is in the hotel’s elegant but cozy Winstub and it is the perfect opportunity for our first taste of “choucroute”, Alsace’s signature dish of sauerkraut and at least 5 types of cooked pork.
Day Four - Itterswiller; Hotel Arnold
This morning, we begin our journey through 1,500 years of Alsacien history as we walk along the rugged hills of the eastern Vosges Mountains to the ruins of the Chateau Bernstein, which was destroyed over a millennium ago. Descending to the more tranquil Huhnersmuehle or “hens mill”, today a small fishery, we will enjoy a lunch of local freshwater delicacies.
Our destination this afternoon is the nearby city of Selestat for a visit to one of the most unique libraries in the world. Founded in the early 1500s, the Humanist Library of Selestat contains tomes dating back to the 7th century and one rare volume in which the word “America” appeared for the first time in print. We have arranged for a private guide here to walk us through centuries of Europe’s most valued manuscripts.
Dinner tonight is in a nearby country restaurant, which highlights Alsace’s version of pizza, “tarte flambé”, traditionally made with cream, onions, cheese and bacon.
Day Five - Kaysersberg; Hotel Chambard
The dense grouping of villages in southern Alsace rises up as if from living myth. Riquewihr, Ribeauville, St. Hyppolyte, Guemar; each settlement seems to evoke its own mysterious legend. The vineyards are often shrouded in morning fog and the beginning of our exploration here is an atmospheric romp from village to village. We will stop in the area’s best-preserved town, Riquewihr, for a guided tour and a light lunch of salad and crepes before continuing on over the hill to our new home in Kaysersberg.
The origins of Kaysersberg date back to Roman times when it was known as “Caesaris Mons” but today, with the remains of its large castle looming over the town square, its character is distinctly medieval. Our home, the lovely Hotel Chambard, is at the villages’ heart and an ideal location for casual wandering amongst the twisted back alleyways and shop-lined main street of town (www.lechambard.com).
If we haven’t had it yet, tonight could be our chance to sample “baeckeoffe”, literally translated as “baker’s oven”. Our quaint restaurant in town specializes in this combination of beef, pork and vegetables marinated for 2 days in wine and then layered with potatoes and baked. A light “kirsch” or cherry brandy is a lovely follow up.
Day Six – Kaysersberg; Hotel Chambard
On our final day, we circle through the villages of Alsace’s southernmost wine country. Niedermorschwihr is a tiny hamlet whose confectionary art is renown as far away as Paris. After a sweet stop here, we continue on to Ammerschwihr to enjoy lunch and a crisp glass of Riesling before returning to our comfortable home in Kaysersberg.
Tonight, we have asked the hotel to pull out all the stops in preparing our final night’s feast. Chef Olivier Nasti has become renowned for his tasting feasts, which include venison medallions with cranberries and Tarte Alsacienne with custard and fruit. A late night stroll through town will cement in our minds all of the rich atmospheric detail of Alsace, this 21st century fairytale.
Day Seven - Departure
After breakfast, we have arranged for private transportation to take you on the 20-minute journey to the town of Colmar, which lies 40 minutes south of Strasbourg via the main railway line. Your guides will gladly help you with your further travel plans.
We Look Forward To Seeing You In Obernai!
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