Eight days, Seven nights
Varenna, Chiavenna, Sils – Maria (St. Moritz)
Day One -
Arrival in Varenna; Hotel Royal Victoria
Varenna is a charming fishing village situated just one hour north of Milan by train. Official check-in time is 2:00 PM though our rooms are often available earlier. At 6:30 PM, we will all meet for a welcome cocktail. Here you will meet your fellow travelers and learn more about your trip. If you arrive early, explore the beautiful gardens of Villas Ciprese and Monastero, just a few steps from our hotel.
Dinner this evening is on the terrace of our hotel, overlooking its lovely garden with an unobstructed view of Lake Como. Delicate lake fish (such as Lavarello), fresh pastas and lemon sorbet in a Vodka sauce are expertly prepared by our chef.
Day Two – Varenna; Hotel Royal Victoria
Today, we venture out via boat to Lake Como's western shore where we begin our walk to the isolated chapel of St. Martino high above the lake. From here we will enjoy a spectacular overview of the entire area. We will wind our way back down through the woods and catch a ferry to the resort town of Bellagio. A stroll through the gardens of the 18th century Villa Melzi will lead us to our lunch destination.
Da Silvio, a small, family-run establishment, is the only restaurant on Lake Como that has its own fishing license. Father and son head out very early each morning to catch the fresh fish that will adorn our plates. We will enjoy an elegant fish pate, perch in a green herb sauce, homemade pasta and perhaps an “affogato”, gelato topped with espresso, all while perched on the terrace with a view of the lake and the silk-like nets that brought us our fare.
This afternoon is for exploring Bellagio and its fabulous silk and silver shops. The crooked alleyways may lead you to Hotel Florence for a cappuccino, at the famous bar where Ernest Hemingway and Mark Twain gained so much inspiration. Boat back to Varenna at your leisure for our final meal on the Lake at a nearby local trattoria.
Day Three – Varenna to Chiavenna; Hotel San Lorenzo
On day three, our tour departs in a distinctly different direction. We begin our trip today with a boat journey to Varenna and a short walk to its panoramic castle. After lunch, we have arranged private transport for the brief ride to Chiavenna. The name Chiavenna originates from the Latin word "chiave" which means key. And for good reason! Situated at the confluence of the Splugen and Maloja passes, this lovely town dates back to Roman times when it was a key to commerce with Northern Europe.
Your late afternoon is free to explore Chiavenna on your own before a lovely dinner at one of the town's most prized local restaurants. Our menus are varied, as we are gratefully located close to the water and the mountains.
Day Four – Chiavenna; Hotel San Lorenzo
This morning, we hike easily along the glacier-fed river Mera to the town of Prosto where we visit an artisan who practices the centuries old crafts of stonecutting and fabric weaving. Roberto Luchinetti carves beautiful stone cookware out of the valley's glacial rock and together with his wife and son, harvests local reeds of linen which they then pound and weave into elegant cloth.
For lunch, we enjoy one of the valley's best kept secrets, its "crottos." Crottos are naturally formed caves in rock faces that retain a cool temperature all year long and where locals preserve their wine, meats and cheeses. In the past Sundays were the celebratory days these doors opened for a traditional meal. Today, one can partake anytime in the home cured meats and cheeses, gnocchi pasta and grilled meats and vegetables, cooked on an open stone. It is truly a unique and memorable meal.
In the afternoon, we will explore the town of Crana, a mountain refuge perched above the Mera River. Crana was inhabited with a small population until the 1950’s when it became a “ghost town”. Recently, children of the original inhabitants are returning and renovating abandoned homes, as it is now the perfect weekend retreat. Tonight we will enjoy another of Chiavenna’s fine restaurants where the specialties include “bresaola” (air-dried beef), intricate salads, torteloni pasta in a nut sauce and ostrich.
Day Five – Chiavenna to Sils Maria; Castle Hotel Waldhaus
From Chiavenna, our journey to Sils Maria in the valley of the Engadine is one of the most beautiful walking itineraries in Europe. Today we traverse the length of the Chiavenna/Bergel Valley to the foot of the Maloja pass, visiting the villages of Vicosoprano and Stampa. Enjoy a final pizza or pasta before we head up into the heart of Switzerland.
We will be picked up for the brief ride to Sils Maria and the spectacular Castle Hotel Waldhaus (www.waldhaus-sils.ch). This lovely resort hotel has been owned and operated by the same family since it opened in 1908.
In the afternoon, join us as we follow in the footsteps of Friedrich Neitzsche, wandering the shoreline of Lake Sils to what was his favorite destination for contemplation. This evening, we will dine together in the hotel's renowned restaurant. An elegant, five-course meal is in store but save room for the fabulous buffet breakfast in the morning!
Day Six – Sils Maria; Castle Hotel Waldhaus
We begin our hike this morning with a brief cable car journey and a walk to the Marmore point. From this breathtaking outcropping of rock, you can see the entire Engadine Valley, from St. Moritz in the north to the Maloja Pass in the south. We continue now into the Fex Valley, which is accessible today only on foot or by horse drawn carriage. A hearty lunch of local sausage, beer and “rosti” (grilled potatoes in a mushroom and onion sauce) awaits.
You may choose to walk down through the woods or take a horse-drawn carriage to the shores of Lake Maloja, which brings us full circle back to Sils Maria and our hotel. We will dine in the intimate “stubli” of our hotel where an absolute must is a taste of Switzerland’s famous cheeses and chocolates.
Day Seven – Sils Maria; Castle Hotel Waldhaus
This morning our trail takes us to the north, rising above the lake Silvaplana with spectacular views of the Corvatch glacier directly above us. We continue on to the Surlej plateau from which we catch the cable car for the final ascent to the glacier itself. Here at 11,000 ft. we enjoy a fine lunch with a complete view of all of the area's major peaks and glacier groups. Warm barley soup with cognac, sliced veal with mushrooms and apple strudel with vanilla sauce are just a few of our selections.
After lunch, we return to the valley floor with its wildflowers and gentle streams for a peaceful walk back to Sils Maria and the Waldhaus before our final special meal together.
Day Eight - Departure
After another superb buffet breakfast, we make arrangements to drive you to St. Moritz where all train connections to other destinations are easily made. St. Moritz also has most major car rental agencies. Your guides will gladly assist you in all your travel needs.
We Look Forward To Seeing You In Varenna!
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