Seven days, Six nights
Puligny-Montrachet, Port-Lesney
Day One – Arrival in Puligny-Montrachet; Hotel Maison d’Olivier Leflaive
Just a few kilometers south of the bustling streets of Beaune, the small park that marks the center of Puligny-Montrachet is a quiet oasis. There are no tour buses and no groups flowing back and forth through town. Visitors here seek three things; luxurious tranquility, delicious food and the fine wines to accompany them. Our Home in Montrachet, the Maison d’Olivier Leflaive, offers all of these things.
Official check-in time is 2:00 PM but our rooms are usually available earlier. Settle in and enjoy a stroll through the village. This evening at 6:30, we will come together for the first time to get to know one another and sample the Maison’s own fine vintages.
Day Two – The Vineyards of the Cote d’Or and a visit to a hidden Chateau; Hotel Maison d’Olivier Leflaive
This morning, we step directly from our hotel, out into the vineyards and onto the slopes of the Côte d’Or. Our path leads through the tiny hamlets of Blagny and Gamay and by midmorning, our view extends well past the Sôane River in the distance. Framed perfectly by the surrounding hills, the village of Rochepot is the perfect place to stop for a lunch of Oeufs Meurette (poached eggs in a hearty red Burgundy sauce) and crusty/soft French bread. It is a Côte d’Or classic.
After lunch, we set our sights on the village’s spectacular chateau where we have arranged for a private visit. The intricate tile work of the Chateau is reminiscent of the Hospices de Beaune but the scale is warm and personal. Our visit reveals a regal home, sumptuous in its details but cozy at heart.
Back in Montrachet this afternoon, we venture out into the vineyards with the family Leflaive for an inside look at their efforts to produce the proud vintages of Puligny-Montrachet. For dinner, we retire to the town square and watch the sun set through the trees of the park.
Day Three – Following the route de St. Romain to the Chateau Meursault; Hotel Maison d’Olivier Leflaive
The villages that comprise the western most portion of Burgundy are petit and sleepy. Unlike their more famous counterparts down in the valley, they are tucked amidst rocky bluffs and dense woodlands with specific exposures set aside for grape cultivation. Each has its own distinct character and charm. Our path today wanders from Les Orches to St. Romain, Petite Auxey and Auxey Duresses, on our way to the famed caves of the Chateau de Meursault.
The Chateau de Meursault is a lovely, classical structure with an extraordinary art collection but it is what lies beneath that astounds. The chateau’s cellars stretch as if towards infinity, housing hundreds of oak casks and hundreds of thousands of bottles in maturation. To simply wander among the chateau’s vintages is intoxicating in itself. To accommodate our exploration, the Chateau has graciously prepared a lovely lunch, all the better with which to enjoy a Premier Cru or two!
It is with a regal gait that we leave the Chateau and stroll home to neighboring Puligny-Montrachet.
Day Four – The villages of the Jura; Hotel Chateau de Germmigney
The Jura area forms an immense high plateau which borders with Switzerland to the east. Most of it is wild and sparsely inhabited but in its northwestern corner lies one of France’s best-kept secrets. This is horse country, and dairy country, AND wine country. Our walk today will highlight it all. At some times villages tower high above us and at others, our views extend down into idyllic, verdant glens.
After lunch in a classic, country bistro, we will continue on to Arbois, this area’s bustling center. Louis Pasteur was born in nearby Dole but it was Arbois that he chose to return to for most of his life. You may visit his home here or just explore the town’s shops and river walks.
Tonight we settle into our own pampered accommodations at the Chateau de Germigney. Vanessa and Arnauld Baert are our hosts and make us feel right at home on our country estate. A candlelight dinner in the garden completes a perfect day.
Day Five – Salins-Les-Bains; Hotel Chateau de Germigney
This day truly reflects the “salt of the earth” nature of this part of France. Our walk follows placid rivers, and hops from town to town to the unique destination of Salins-les-Bains. This is not an area filled with quaint antique shops. The antiques are still in the farmhouses and the locals still sit on their rustic chairs and greet us as we walk by. The countryside evokes a France of days gone by, simple, hardworking and rich in all good things.
Salins-les-Bains takes its name from the saltwater springs which flow beneath it. Today, the soothing waters attract spa visitors but centuries ago the village was one of France’s most important salt producers. The stunning salt mines of that time are a technological wonder and are listed as a World Heritage Site. Our visit to Salins gives us new appreciation for this most important and elemental of spices.
This evening, we venture out to the Bistro de Port-Lesney for a simple and classic dinner that drives home the earthy tastes of this pristine countryside.
Day Six – Arc-En-Senans; Hotel Chateau de Germigney
It is one of our fascinations with the Franche-Comté region that a few steps will take us from the simple to the sublime. This morning, we wander beside the serene banks of the Loue River to Arc-en-Senans and the stunning architectural wonder of the Saline Royale.
It seems a classic French concept to start with the premise of an industrial processing facility and elevate it to an Age of Enlightenment gem. In the late 1700’s, the output of Salins-les-Bains had become so important to the country that Louis XV deemed a Royal Saltworks necessary. He commissioned the esteemed architect Claude Nicolas Ledoux to create a complex whose beauty would reflect its importance and the result is the Saline Royale. Our visit here vividly points out that the most fundamental of structures can also inspire.
This afternoon, we return to the chateau via the surrounding vineyards and Monsieur and Madamme Baert have pulled out all the stops to prepare a dinner bringing together all of the rich tastes and elegant wines that have accompanied us throughout our week together.
Day Seven – Departure
After a final breakfast in the chateau garden, we have arranged for transportation to take you to Dijon from which there are frequent departures towards Paris. We will be happy to assist you in coordinating your further travel plans.
We Look Forward To Seeing You In Puligny-Montrachet!
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