Seven Days, Six Nights
Istria, Kvarner, Northern Dalmatia
Day One – Arrival in Zagreb and Transfer to Opatija; 5-Star Hotel Milenij
Our journey begins at the Zagreb International Airport. Zagreb is easily reached from the United States via Paris and flights arrive daily in the late morning. We will come together in the international arrivals lounge at 1:00 PM and we have arranged for private transport to take us to the 5-Star Hotel Milenij in Opatija on the Adriatic Sea, two hours away.
In the late 19th Century, Opatija was the most elegant seaside resort of the Austrian Empire and the Villa Hasslinger was its most spectacular property. Today, it is a meticulously restored Belle Epoque gem. It is situated in the heart of Opatija beside one of Croatia's most lovely parks. You may choose to explore the stylish streets of Opatija or perhaps enjoy a massage before we meet on the terrace at 6:30 PM for an aperitif and a lovely dinner.
Day Two – The Istrian Peninsula; 5-Star Hotel Milenij
The Istrian Peninsula is the part of Croatia that lies closest to Italy and the cultural influences here are unmistakable. The sleepy villages of the Istrian interior bring to mind the undiscovered Tuscany of decades ago. A brief van ride whisks us away from the coast and directly to its geographical heart.
Forests of chestnut, olive groves and small vineyards dot the landscape. Our walk this morning wanders from village to village, some inhabited by just a few families. Perhaps the most enchanting of all is the hamlet of Hum. With a year round population of just 17, Hum bills itself as “the smallest town in the world” but the village square, with it’s 12th Century Romanesque church is surprisingly sophisticated. At a local taverna, we will enjoy a lunch of hearty Istrian specialties, such as hand-made fuzi pasta, on a shady terrace overlooking the valley below.
This afternoon our walk takes us down the unusual Glagolitic path. Along the way a series of 11 outdoor sculptures commemorate Istria’s importance in the development of Glagolitic, the oldest known Slavic alphabet.
This evening, a private boat will transport us to the lovely harbor of Volosko, which has come to be known as a harbor for “foodies” as well. The sommelier at Volosko’s most beloved restaurant is one of Croatia’s best-known wine columnists so we are sure to enjoy a special bottle of Istria’s best!
Day Three – The Kvarner Coastline and Boat Transfer to Rab Island; Hotel Arbiana
The stretch of coastline extending west from Opatija enjoys an element that we have not seen in any other prized beach destination, a 12-kilometer pathway linking the area’s villages. The Lungomare winds in and out of rocky inlets, passes beneath Art Nouveau villas and highlights town parks. It was brilliantly designed to remain away from the main road and firmly at water’s edge to offer walkers a peaceful and lush passage between towns. The islands of Krk and Cres scroll out across the horizon.
Our destination this morning is Lovran. Lovran has something no other town along the Riviera has, a walled, medieval town center. Its crooked, narrow alleyways are great fun to explore. Here, you will discover tiny chapels, private gardens, quirky facades and a surprisingly innovative restaurant nestled into a small piazza barely 20 foot square.
After a delicious and leisurely lunch, we board our private bus for the short transfer to Rijeka and the speedy catamaran to Rab Island. Our course passes directly between Krk and Cress, giving us our first impressions of the island life to come. When the current Croatian president desires to spend time on the islands, he chooses Rab. And, he also chooses to reside in our new home, The Hotel Arbiana. And he also chooses to dine by candlelight in the garden at the Arbiana’s Slow-Food Restaurant. We see no reason not to follow his lead!
Day Four – The Green Side of Rab Island; Hotel Arbiana
Rab Island is simply the best-kept secret of the Dalmatian Coast. That may be because technically it belongs to the Kvarner Islands. The first Dalmatian Island is Pag, just 2 kilometers away. Still, Rab exhibits all the characteristics of the most popular islands to the south (Hvar and Korcula) without any of the mass tourism that overwhelms them. Rab has a fascinating dual personality. Half of the island is lush and green, the other, as bare as the moon. Today we’re off for an exploration of the green side.
From our hotel garden, we step into the heart of the old town. We stroll past the four churches whose towers give Rab Town its distinctive skyline and enter the town park. This is where people slip away in the morning to read the paper or chat in peace. Passing through the park, we drop down into the Bay of Euphemia, named after the Franciscan Monastery at the bay’s mouth. At the monastery, the island goes silent. For the rest of the morning our path wanders through shady woods, popping out occasionally at the sea for glimpses of Rab Town and the mainland far in the distance.
Just before lunch, we will be whisked by private boat to one of Rab's most secluded bays where we will enjoy a lovely meal of freshly caught fish complemented by some of Croatia's finest white wine. Then, we leisurely motor back to Rab Town for a little exploration. As yet, we have not had the opportunity to explore Rab Town proper so we will take this opportunity to get you acquainted with its unique shops and artisan markets. All this day needs is a traditional island meal of peka (slowly roasted lamb) to bring it to a perfect close.
Day Five – The White Side of Rab Island and Transfer to Plitvice Lakes National Park; Hotel Plitvice
The national colors of Greece are white and blue and among the hills of eastern Rab it feels as if a Greek flag should be waving proudly. This is an arid and austere landscape of white volcanic rock and the deep blue of the Adriatic Sea. Its simplicity is exhilarating and a stark contrast to our previous experiences on the island.
Our walk this morning leads up a densely wooded path and through a tight gorge before popping out on the white plateau at the island’s summit. Our view extends over a dozen islands and the Velebit massif on the mainland. It is customary for visitors to construct a small rock sculpture to mark their passing on the plateau. You may choose to try your hand at this or simply admire the acres of other sculptures silhouetted by the sea. Nearby, a lattice of high, stonewalls form the pens where the island’s sheep are raised. We’ll enjoy a stop at an isolated and rustic café where they produce their own Rab Island pecorino before descending on a gentle country road back towards town.
Our lunch is a special treat as we visit our friend Marino who is Rab's largest producer of local wines.
Afterwards we will catch the ferry to the mainland and hop in our private van for the 2 1/2 hour journey to Plitvice National Park. Once we cross the Velibit massif, the green expanse of the Croatian interior spreads out beneath us. By late afternoon, sitting in the shade on the terrace of our cozy new hotel, the white plains of Rab feel countries away.
Day Six – Plitvice Lakes National Park; Hotel Plitvice
Nothing can quite prepare you for Plitvice Lakes. It is like the first time you peeked over the rim of the Grand Canyon or glimpsed El Capitan from the mouth of the Yosemite Valley, a totally unique natural wonder.
Plitvice National Park is composed of 16 lakes and the infinite number of waterfalls that connect them. Cool mountain water flows seemingly everywhere, from the steep cliffs above to the feathery streams that bubble beneath our feet. Access is only made possible by 13 kilometers of wooden footbridges that wind back and forth between the park’s most scenic corners. It does little good to write on and on about the impossibly blue water or the variety of wildlife and vegetation. True verbal justice just cannot be done.
Our once in a lifetime day is punctuated by lake crossings on unusual, electric, open-air cabanas and a country banquet in the park’s chalet restaurant. It is the culmination of a week of extraordinary variety, in landscapes, in culture and in cuisine.
Day Seven – Transfer to Zagreb and Departure
This morning, we have arranged for private transport for our return trip to Zagreb, two hours from the Plitvice Park. Flights leave frequently for a variety of European capitols and other cities in Croatia. Your guides will be happy to assist you in coordinating your further travel plans.
We Look Forward To Seeing You In Zagreb!
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