Seven days, Six nights
Gubbio, Spello, Todi
Day One – Arrival in Gubbio; Hotel Relais Ducale
In so many ways, Gubbio is the spiritual heart of Umbria. The original settlers of Gubbio are known as Umbri, and their society thrived at the same time as the Etruscans. After Rome conquered the area, the Umbri continued to thrive here due to the fact that the main arteries of Roman travel avoided this isolated village. Your accommodations here are at the Relais Ducal Palace, a splendidly renovated 17th century palazzo with its original stone ceilings and winding staircases.
Official check-in time is 2:00 PM though our rooms are often available earlier. At 6:30 PM we meet for a welcome cocktail where you will be introduced to your guides and hear more about your trip. Dinner is at the nearby Taverna del Lupo, which is dedicated to St. Francis and the wolf he tamed in defense of the city. Here we may have our first tastes of the famous black Norcia truffle and exquisite olive oil that Umbria is so well known for.
Day Two – Gubbio; Hotel Relais Ducale
This morning, we will travel high above the city and enjoy a walk that gives us an excellent feeling for the wild countryside that acted as a natural protector of the city throughout the years. We wander through woods and isolated farmsteads, arriving at a spectacular viewpoint of the entire Gubbio region for an elegant lunch. Here we will be treated to an array of antipasti such as cured hams and salamis, vegetable flan in fonduta (pecorino cheese sauce), or duck carpaccio, followed by a sampling of homemade pastas or risotto.
After lunch, we will return to town either on foot through the woods or via panoramic gondola. A visit to the atelier of a local ceramic producer, who has perfected the 16th century art of mixing gold and silver with organic colors, a method that made Umbria the ceramic capitol of Italy, is a special treat this afternoon. This is complemented by dinner tonight in the local restaurant that houses the original oven that the Maestro Giorgio used to bake his ceramic treasures in the 1500’s. Today the ovens here bake tender meats and a bottle of Sangratino di Montefalco, Umbria’s delectable red wine, provides the perfect accompaniment.
Day Three – Transfer to Spello; Hotel La Bastiglia
This morning, you will enjoy a beautiful drive down to the valley surrounding Perugia and stop at Assisi. From here, we walk in the footsteps of St. Francis through the olive groves that surround Spello and Assisi. Our destination is La Malverina, a restored farmhouse where mother, son and grandson work together to preserve Umbria’s varied agricultural history. La Malverina makes its own olive oil, marmalades and pastas and Maria works wonders with local seasonal ingredients, as we will find out over an abundant, family-style lunch on the La Malverina’s sunny terrace. Claudio, her son, loves to comment – “Mom can cook everyday for a month and not make the same thing twice!”
This afternoon, we will walk on the honeysuckle-surrounded trail directly to Spello where Lucca and Maura Fancelli welcome us to their lovely hotel featuring a heated swimming pool and rooms withh terraced gardens overlooking the countryside. The medieval town of Spello is at your doorstep and you are free to explore it and all of its crooked alleyways and fine shops.
A special wine tasting dinner is in store for us tonight, coordinated by our flamboyant host, Roberto. His enoteca has been rated in the top 10 of Italy, for not only does he showcase all of Umbria’s finest vintages, but makes a special effort to seek out small vintners with production so small they will not be found elsewhere. Each wine is paired with thoughtful courses and this is where we will taste a wide assortment of local cheeses, perhaps in truffled olive oil, as well as soups of the hearty lentil or ceci (garbanzo) beans.
Day Four – Assisi; Hotel La Bastiglia
The city of Assisi is a marvel. It clings to the side of Monte Subasio in an intricate layer of urban terraces and is visible from miles away. St. Francis of Assisi was a humble man but his works have inspired a city of numerous cathedrals, palazzos and piazzas. Pilgrims have been coming here for centuries and the city has expanded many times. They continue to come today as well, which sometimes seems to overwhelm the peaceful spirit of town.
This morning, we embark on a truly unique tour of Assisi. With the help of a local professional guide, we have designed an itinerary that winds inside and outside the city walls, down ancient streets steeped in silence offering views of the surrounding countryside that are seldom seen. On our way, we will hear of the significance of the Franciscan order, learn of daily life throughout the centuries and finally, arrive at the lovely Basilica of St. Francis for a thoughtful visit.
For lunch, we repair high up onto the hillside of Monte Subasio to a medieval hamlet for a taste of Umbrian cuisine at its most simple and traditional. Grilled sausages pair well with the spicy pasta “piccante” and the handmade biscotti cookies dipped in the sweet desert wine, “Vin Santo” (wine of the saints).
After lunch, a wide country lane winds down through olive groves to the valley floor and the fertile plain that surrounds Spello. We walk directly to our hotel for our final night here and any last minute shopping. Tonight’s restaurant has a more modern flair. La Cantina bottles its own water from their local springs and specializes, for those who are so bold, in traditional grilled pigeon! If not, the Umbrian pastas of “umbrici” and “shascinati”, long thick handmade spaghettis are a tempting possibility.
Day Five – Montefalco and Bevagna; La Tenuta di Canonica
From the bustle that surrounds Assisi, we head in the opposite direction this morning to the tranquil but renowned Montefalco. The wine country of Umbria is not as extensive as that of Tuscany but it produces some exquisite varietals and the most prized of these is the Sagrantino di Montefalco. We descend through these treasured vineyards to the lovely village of Bevagna for a special lunch in an excavated Roman amphitheatre. Watching our chefs prepare our meal in the modern, glass-enclosed kitchen built directly into the heart of this ancient structure is almost as exciting as eating it. Afterwards, we will explore the rich heritage of this medieval center, which dates back to Roman times. Demonstrations of ancient methods of linen, candle and paper productions are a special treat.
Our new home, the Tenuta di Canonica is a resplendently restored Umbrian farmhouse, combining Etruscan and Roman ruins. Each room is unique, reflecting the original construction, and well appointed with exquisite antiques. Their fine kitchen will tempt us tonight with more Umbrian dishes, such as “tagliata di manzo”, thinly sliced beef on a bed of rosemary.
Day Six – Monte Castello di Vibio, Todi;
La Tenuta di Canonica
Today, you will enjoy a true victory walk. Leaving directly from the Tenuta, our path rises slowly into the surrounding hills. Arriving at a small crossroads, we enjoy a view that extends from Todi to Perugia and we continue on this summit road, enjoying spectacular vistas in all directions. Our destination, which is visible in the distance, is the medieval hamlet of Monte Castello di Vibio, a hidden gem of the Umbrian countryside. It was here in Monte Castello in the late 1940’s that Gina Lollobrigida first took the stage at the Theatro della Concordia. The Concordia is Italy’s smallest theater and we will enjoy a visit here before a lovely lunch on a nearby terrace. For those who choose, an afternoon visit to the bustling town of Todi is available, though you may opt for a dip in the pool at our hotel.
Our stay at the Tenuta di Canonica is highlighted by a hands-on cooking demonstration, held by Chef Andrea Cussimoni from the nearby Cordon Blue school of Perugia. He will share with us his flair with traditional Umbrian recipes that we can easily replicate with ingredients found in the United States so that we may relive our Umbrian memories for years to come. Our Farewell Dinner is in the hands of the cooking school participants, so surely will be a fine affair!
Day Seven - Departure
After breakfast at the Tenuta, we have arranged transport to Orvieto, the nearest train station on the Rome-Florence line. The ride, about 30 minutes, is beautiful and dynamic as it passes over many gorges and Lake Cortinina.
We Look Forward To Seeing You In Gubbio!
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